Sunday, July 8, 2012

I Don't Know: Spontaneity, Bouldering, and the Crowleyan whY

"As far as Wasdale is concerned the inclination to practise on boulders and other apparatus appears to have been something that arose spontaneously in the mid 1890s" (Michael Cocker)  



1.  The Easy Way.
2.  The Right Slab. You may not use the edges.
3.    do.     You may not use the slab for handhold.
4.  The South Arete. One leg each side all the way.
5.  The Overhung Arete.
6.  The Left Crack.  You must not use the jammed stone.
7.    do.   You must not use the left branch of  the Y for handholds.
8.    do.   Finishing to the right of the j.s. (jammed stone)
8a. Between the cracks. Doubtful if this has been done fairly.
9.   The Right Crack.
10.   do.   Not using the Left Crack.
11.  The Left Undercut. Not using the Right Crack.
12.  The Right Undercut.  Keeping (?) the edge.
13.  The North Corner on the face.
14.    do.     in (?) the corner.
15.  The Steeple Ridge from the NE.
16.    do.    N. end.
17.    do.    W. end.
18.  The Left Slab.
19.    do.    Not using the edge.
20.  The Easy Crack.
21.  The Middle Slab.
22.  The Easy Way. Feet first. Face inwards.

Source: John Gill, "The First Bouldering Guide?"



Mr. Crowley, what went on in your head 
Mr. Crowley, did you talk with the dead 
Your life style to me seemed so tragic 
With the thrill of it all 
You fooled all the people with magic 
You waited on Satan's call 

Mr. Charming, did you think you were pure 
Mr. Alarming, in nocturnal rapport 
Uncovering things that were sacred 
Manifest on this earth 
Conceived in the eye of a secret 
And they scattered the afterbirth 

Mr. Crowley, won't you ride my white horse 
Mr. Crowley, it's symbolic of course 
Approaching a time that is classic 
I hear the maiden's call 
Approaching a time that is drastic 
Standing with their backs to the wall 

Was it polemically sent 
I wanna know what you meant 
I wanna know 
I wanna know what you meant




THE MOUNTAINEER

Consciousness is a symptom of disease.

All that moves well moves without will.

All skillfulness, all strain, all intention is contrary to ease.

Practise a thousand times, and it becomes difficult; a thousand thousand, and it becomes easy; a thousand thousand times a thousand thousand, and it is no longer Thou that doeth it, but It that doeth itself through thee. Not until then is that which is done well done.

Thus spoke FRATER PERDURABO as he leapt from rock to rock of the moraine without ever casting his eyes upon the ground.


(Aleister Crowley, Book of Lies, Kephale LB)

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